Front CV Axle Recommendations

Someone on here that bought the long travel axles mentioned they didn’t seem like they had any more travel than OEM, and if you didn't have the money to buy the really spendy ones, don't bother. Anybody extra input is appreciated.

 

I tried stretching my trackmotives & couldnt. Seems like they'd pull out of the diff before expanding, but maybe they'll loosen up over time.

 

yeah ran 2.5" up front for like 100k with OEM

 

It’s possible my squeaking and creaking came from the poly end links and poly sway bar bushings. Sounded horrible. It’s over now. Sway bar links. My buddy has a 2.5 lift without it. He has no issues. But he is oem rubber.

I’m oem rubber w long links. It will do the job

 

Are you running the TRAKMOTIVE TO8088XTT from RA?

 

Yessir. Unfortunately, i forgot to measure cv angles.

 

Do you mean measure before and after? Do they come with an extended inner boot? How's the rub?

 

No, compare the angles, i'll have my front wheels back off tomorrow afternoon & get a good look at the boots at full lock, but yea, i'd say the inner boots are longer. Gimme a minute.



& they did extend, when i was attaching the ubj the knuckle slipped in my hand & i had thought the axle had come out of the diff, but it didnt. It all happened kinda fast & i almost forgot about it.

 

Once the c-clip is inside of the differential, it should not be able to come come out easily.

One thing about those Trakmotives is they have the sliding center shaft. Those might be useful for Toyotas that have Tripod joints on the inner CV, but since our OEM CVs are double offset on the inner, I don't think they should be compared. I do not have the exact numbers for our stock CVs or stock Toyota tripod CVs, but Tripod joints are limited to 23-ish degrees of articulation, and double offset or Rzeppa should be closer to 46-50.

The inner joint on the Trakmotives is fixed, vs the OEM inner joint being a a plunge joint. As the suspension moves the shaft on the Trakmotive plunges, rather than the inner joint on the CV. Additionally, the Trakmotive has 8 ball bearings vs 6 ball bearings on the OEM. 6 ball bearings from OEM likely provide less friction.

I'm curious how the sliding center shaft holds up to lots of torque, could potentially be a weak spot. I'd be curious if the standard Napa axles are tripod axles. If that's the case, the Trakmotive might provide a little better articulation, but for most people, especially DD's, I'd say those would be fine and just use the Napa warranty if a joint breaks.

My conclusion is the Trakmotives don't really provide much over OEM Tundra CVs, they're just constructed and operate slightly differently.

 

Definately some boot touching. Not too bad straight on.


pretty good at full droop, but i'm on the lowest spring setting. I wanted the extra articulation for a spacer above the shock. I dont mind a diff drop as long as it clears my skidplate.

 

Looks like your inners don't seem to be rubbing and that's great. Guess that makes sense with only a mild lift but wondered how the Trackmotive boots fit as hadn't seen them compared to OEM that are pretty tiny.

Can see your old CV boots must have split, eh? What did you do with the OEM CVs? Rebooting them?

 

Yea, i'll get em fixed up & have em if i need em.

 

New cv axels in and needle bearing replaced with ecgs bushing. Damn truck is still making a noise in the front end drive train somewhere... s#it!

 

What kinda noise?

 

Murmuring/light grinding and a little clunking. The cv axels had spit out their grease from the inner boots and the driver's side inner portion of the cv axel would move about 2-3 mm when I shook it. So I put in new track motive axels and a ecgs bushing but still makes the same noise.

 

Sorry for the extra work but actually the bushing is probly worth it proactively anyway. Have you tracked the sound with mechanics ears?

Had same symptoms thinking it might be needle brearing but no relief in 4wd so also thought CVs since had torn boots but still had noise after replacing that needed to be done anyways. Removed brake pads to eliminate drag noise and on stands checked each wheel and the drivelines, center bearing etc front to rear. Then ran the rears off the ground and found sound associated actually with rear wheel (bearing). Hard to determine exact location from cab. Is it like a wah wah in the cab and a little whir and occasional click and grind when right near one of the wheels?

BTW, you still got the original CVs? Worth rebooting or passing on to someone that wants to.

 

Sounds like that exactly.
I do still have the old cv axels, if anyone wants them they're free.

 

Wherabouts are you? That's a deal that's hard to pass up. Dibs if you're anywhere near NW GA or south AL.

 

Colorado, about 45 minutes north of Denver

 

Damn. Well, here's what I'd tell you. There are definitely some folks on here who are within an hour or two of you who'd love to have those CVs as trail spares, since they're working well and probably only need a re-pack, maybe new dust seals.

Can you post those up in the 1st gen Marketplace? You officially just hit 50 posts with your last reply, and earned permission to post in the Marketplace forums: https://www.tundras.com/forums/1st-gen-tundra-parts-marketplace-2000-2006.4/

Use a clear subject with your location, like: [Denver CO] Used OEM CV axles FREE

Too many people chuck their old parts. OEM Toyota axles are bulletproof, and I'm pretty sure part of the reason they stopped selling reman axles is b/c so many wound up in junkyards or landfills, reducing rebuildable stock.

 

Will do. How do I know if they're OEM? They both have pink stickers with numbers "43430-0C010 630808067027 GKNAI" and the other number ends in "29"

Also I just lifted up the rear end and let the truck roll in 2 wheel drive and the noise is definitely coming from the rear, the passenger side sounds worse than the driver's side, do you think this is a wheelbearing issue?

 

The pink sticker is the sign they are OEM.

 

That alone tells you they're OEM.

Have you popped off the drums to make sure the shoes are OK?

Have you confirmed the diff isn't empty?

Have you had someone spin a wheel while under the truck while your head is under the diff to listen if it's actually coming from that area? Or put your hand on things to see if the vibration is louder in one spot versus another? There are other things there, not just wheels...

 

Diff fluid is good, clean and full. Took off the drums cleaned up the dust, the shoes look normal. I let the truck roll in 2 wheel drive and the noise is definitely coming from the passenger side. I put my hand on the axel housing on both sides and under the diff. I can feel it's definitely the passenger side.

 

I don't envy you, the wheel bearings are a f'n bitch from what others have posted. That may be one of those things I took to a stealership just so they had to repair again later.

 

Yep, this one is beyond my abilities

 

Same here. I would pay someone to do it. Pulling the spindle and taking it to a shop to have it pressed in/out might save some money too.

 

I'd consider them for cost of shipping depending on condition. Did they tear holes in the boots or you just lost a little grease seeping out of the boots after lifting?

 

Pulling and reinstalling the axle is really not that hard but having the right shop remove and press on bearing and retainers to spec is key. I'm about to take this journey too. Looked at buying a press and SST and pressing the bearing myself so I know it's done right but think I found an experienced 4x4 shop to do this for a reasonable cost <$100. Suggest a new bearing and two retainers (some people reuse retainers but consider replacing), oil seal, and o-ring for the job. Planning to reuse the tone ring.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uY8pljevOY4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-c2x3F8DU4

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-axle-bearing-replacement.88314/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wheel-bearing.49527/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/recent-axle-seal-tips-hints-and-prayers.92986/#post-2351027

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-axle-seals-bearings.39306/page-3

 

please don't do aftermarket unless they are the high angle ones that are over $500. i've been down this road before. with the truck jacked up and in 4wd only my oem one would spin and the other side wasn't even drooping as far because the aftermarket cv joint was limiting downward suspension travel. it was binding and even caused it to pull to one side going down the road.