Another suspension thread

I've done a fair amount of digging related to this and I can't find what I'm looking for. @shifty` I've read your threads in regards to Suspension but I feel like this is too specific. If not then I apologize in advance.

So, rather than going to get an opinion from a 4x4 shop or similar I wanted to try you guys first.

I'm redoing the mess of a front end I have. Along with most other parts up there, I'm going to replace the front shocks and coilovers because for one, the bushing is shot as you can see in the pic and for two, they're Quick-Struts My question lies with will the 5100s give me the same ride height I currently have and what brand/size should I go with for coilovers? I can't find any identification other than the name and that little tag in the picture to tell me what model the struts that are currently installed, are. Looking up that info shows me a strut that doesnt look the same as the one installed. Not to mention there are pucks installed too. So, idk how to guage this to have the end result near, but preferably, the same height.

It's sitting on 285/70s. The center of the hub to the fender is 23½" in the front.

Per usual I might be over thinking it but I want to be sure.

You guys might see some items that need R² so call them out if I don't have them listed below on what I'm already changing.

OEM:

LCAs
LBJs & Mount Bolts
OTRs


Suspensionmaxx:

Extended Sway Bar Links


Unknown source (open to suggestions):

Cam Bolts, sleeve and nut cap (OEM preferred but looking to get it as an assembly. Need to research PNs)
UBJs

 

There are some websites that sell the assembled coil/shock together which might work for you.

I believe 1st gen off-road is one of them.

https://www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/c18/TundraSuspension#/

Shifty also listed detail on this stuff in his thread as well. From what I see, OME 884/885 coils and Bilstein 5100s seem to be a popular combo.

 

You need to get those strut spacers the hell outta there.

The basic reco here is simple. Hit the Measure Up thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/

Flip thru and find another access cab 4WD dude and check their measurements. There should be ample dudes with that info, specifically pay attention to the center-of-hub to fender flare measurement for other AC/4WD trucks that went 5100/2884 or 2885 That’s what’s gonna give you the number you need to see.

I suspect you’ll need to go 2885. And that thread may not have everyone. I want to say @Jbhoops and maybe @Sailor95 maybe also went 5100/2885? There’s one other person that’s not coming to mind who has a white AC/4WD out there, if I was on a computer I’d look! Can’t believe I’m blanking on the name. I love how his truck is looking these days.

 

I have 5100's and OME 2885 springs on a 2WD dc.

my tires are 285/75. So 34's compared to your 33's. And I sit at 22.5" after it settled.

Most likely (within my best reasoning) if you want the same height. You will probably be looking at 5100's and 2887 springs. Maybe even stiffer? (If that's a thing)

 

Your DC will have different geometry, and is still heavier than his AC/4WD @FishNinja.

Even so, I’d still go 5100/2885 and probably land with 3/4” rake to the front. Worst case, though it’s not advised by Billy, I know a couple people on here have admitted to doing it, he could always jump a circlip to bump up another 0.5 - 0.75”.

But I’m also known to stick in the “better safe than sorry” camp. And we certainly have people on here running 5100/2885 with 22.8” diameter.

 

I guess that's kinda like a ghetto, preloaded, 2887.

 

I think even one incidence of someone overlifting their AC/4WD in this forum was enough. Would hate to see that happen again. Especially if I knew it was me that told him to do it. I don’t like suggesting people spend money on shit that may cause issues. If he’s not happy with 2885, he can always spring swap to 2887. Hell, someone on here will surely buy the 2885s off him in the marketplace. Ain’t nobody buying 2887s in the reverse case, I’d say.

 

@shifty` you mentioned AC a few times but I have a 4wd DC. Regardless though, I appreciate the good info. Going off what @FishNinja said, it has me leaning towards the 2887s. I feel like the 2885s wouldn't suffice for what I'm looking for now that I have new info.

 

Weird, I swore I read DC last night, but it's been a rough few nights. One of our kids' friends died end of last week, everyone is still dealing with the fallout over here.

Yes, in your case, if DC, I think 2887 is probably the best way to go on this one. Whatever you do, just get that puck out of there. And if you need 2" lift in the rear, consider moving over to the ATS "HD" leaf springs, it should give you 1.75"-2" natural lift, without using blocks.

 

Sorry to hear my man.

That might be the way to go. Gotta get rid of the RC shock and that spacer too.

 

Fuuuuuck man, those leaf springs are fucked. You feeling any axle wrap? Do you ever tow? That's not healthy at all.

Frame looks awesome though. I definitely approve of how clean that is.

You may want to look into LSPV bracket relocation just to restore some of your rear braking function, which will improve your braking experience. I'm assuming your PO probably didn't bother and just left the brakes to feel like shit. Here's an example kit, there's a few on the market. No reason you can't fab your own. Other than making sure your P-brake is functional, here are two tips for braking improvement on lifted 1st gens, reply #33 here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/page-2#post-3360528

Link to the ATS HD springs is in my signature , here below: (if you're on mobile, you may need to rotate to horizontal mode to see it)

 

+1 on ATS HD leafs and 2887's

 

You're missing a bump-stop right here. This means when going through bumps or carrying any weight, your shock will completely bottom out and that's no good.




You can buy them here:

https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/toyota-tacoma-toyota-tundra-upper-u-bolt-bump-stop-saddle-bt910/

Or an OEM part number is available here:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/leaf-spring-bumper-stop-advice.141856/#post-3569029

I have a set I'm willing to give away too.

 

Nahhhhh his shock bottoms out before frame probably. So his shock exploding is his bump stop

 

I dunno, based on everything else I'm seeing, I'm wondering if maybe the PO only reinstalled the passenger side, with the logic of, "Meh, having it on one side is enough!"

 

There's a lot of "meh" going on with that poor tundra. Hopefully OP changes that

 

I still think he'd be better off just getting rid of the strut spacer and going 5100/2885 up front, then ditching the lift blocks in the rear and getting the ATS HD springs. The stance should be almost identical to current, but maybe ½"-¾" an inch lower overall, which is almost nothing.

Should still be able to stuff 285/70r17 without rubbing much more than the mud flaps. Being that extra ½"-¾" isn't going to eliminate that rubbing. A custom alignment with tons of caster is what's going to help reduce the rubbing.

Edit: Actually, I'd argue it'll look way more natural than it does now if OP is sticking with the current tires. The truck is too high up for the rubber it's rocking right now.

 

Oh, and OP, you likely DO NOT need UBJ. Your UCA and UCA bushings look fine too. If your cam bolts and sleeves aren't frozen, you don't need those either. Save yourself some money and pain. I can't tell if your LCA bushings or steering rack bushings are alright, not clear enough.

Clearly the lower strut mounts are shot and probably riding like shit, but you'll be replacing them. The lower ball joints are the Achilles heel of this truck, and you can only use OEM, and always use fresh OEM bolts. This is not a joke. I can't see yours in the pic, and may not be able to tell if they're OEM even if I could, but ... given the other shit we're seeing, if you could proiritize other things on the list:

• New OEM LBJ with fresh bolts
• Consider potentially updating your UCA if you plan to go taller than 5100/2885 on springs, something that'll allow more caster
• OEM rear bumpstops are unavailable for our trucks (discontinued), but someone is mulling around with 1997 Hilux rear bumps as a possible OEM alternative for lifted trucks, they look 1" taller.
• Check rack bushings, and verify those tie rods and rack bellows are alright

 

Your brake line is being held on by a ziptie. Source appropriate screw. Your upper brake line bracket appears to have a long screw that is rubbing the coil. Drilled and slotted rotors on the front are an interesting choice. How's the brake performance? And the LBJ thing is real, heed that advice.

 

Just a couple of general thoughts. The coil springs seem to be all over the place as to how much lift they provide so it may be a bit of trial and error. I feel like the rear is more consistent so maybe start with the front and if you are good with whatever lift you get, then match the rear. THe ATS HD add 1.5 lift fairy consistently and if you need more, an add a leaf gets between 1-1.5. Also, less than 1 inch block in the back isn't too bad.

If you want to avoid playing with different coils up front to get the lift you want, there are a few solid coil over options that aren't crazy expensive, take a look at Toytec Aluma and dobinson IMS.

 

I appreciate all the input fellas. The PO of this truck left me with a mess that I'm looking to clean up. It's a lot I know but you guys are pointing out somethings I haven't noticed or thought of and I'm greatful.

I'm not 100% on the axle wrap. I had to look it up to even know what it is. I don't think so but I drive this thing like a grandpa because I know the shape it's in. I put the ATS leafs on the list.

The braking could definitely be better in the rear. I haven't decided what to do with the LSPV. Idk whether to do what you recommend or just completely eliminate it. It'd be nice to have it function properly though.

I'd much rather pay for shipping and take those off your hands than drop $60 on the other set. Haven't bought anything from anyone on here so I'm not sure how it works. I am curious though if that set for the Hilux works.

Good to know about the UBJs and UCAs. In the, "While I'm in here" mode but this shit is racking up quick $$$.

Could I just take a wrench the cam bolts and sleeve to see if they're seized? If so, should I do it on the ground? I'll take pics tomorrow of the LCA and it's bushings. If I recall correctly, they don't look mint. I'd love to save $500 there though.

The rack bushings seem to be fine but I'll take pics of those too.

Definitely going OEM LBJs and bolts. No doubt there.

Yall are going to love look of the boot over the tie rod. It's like my booty hole after Cinco De Mayo, shredded. It's getting changed when I throw on those new extended OTRs.

Thanks for pointing that out about the long screw or bolt rubbing. I missed it. I'll take care of it while I'm in there.

 

https://www.suspensionlifts.com/sho...-and-rear-shocks-for-2000-2006-toyota-tundra/

I'm looking at this set of shocks and coilovers which seem to be a good price. Is it a bad thing to not be able to adjust the clip for ride height? Obviously they're saying you won't need to because the spring gives the "desired" lift but thought it was interesting. Ppl always talk about changing or having their's at a certain range/notch.

Also, do the before mentioned ATS HD leafs come with the hardware like the U Bolts or are they sold seperate? I didn't see them in the pics or description on their page.

 

Those folks are formerly BilsteinLifts.com, they boned me and at least one other person (more info).

5100 + lifted spring = don't change notch, very common setup.
5100 + OEM spring = change notch, within Bilstein's grid of what's OK and what's not based on your cab/drivetrain type (it varies).
4600 + lifted spring = save $100-300 on an absurdly similar shock, that's blue and yellow, and doesn't have notches.

Pick your poison.

 

holler at @memario1214 from HotShotOffroad
He'll 100% take care of you.

avoid SL. Read reviews online. Not the best place to order from.

 

Get ready for some more defects that need tending to in the pics below. Yes I have an oil leak. It's coming from the valve cover. It's on the list. I'm also missing a bolt for the manifold connection to the next pipe into the series but the whole exhaust is getting gutted once I knock out the critical things. If yall see anything else, lmk.

The bushings for the LCAs don't look good to me but let me hear it. The LBJs are apparently "new" but idk what brand they went with so they're getting changed regardless. The bushings for the rack and sway bar seem fine.

Still curious though about the cam bolts and sleeves. I'd like to test if they're seized but I don't know the correct way ie on the ground or jacked, touch or no touch on what side or another..

Then the rear leaf U Bolts, would new OEM ones fit fine with the ATS HD leafs or do I need something specific or any random one meeting x length.

 

@shifty` I went 2884 and 5100, love this setup! No extra weight on front end tho, AC 06

 

Looks great!

Would you mind posting your hub to fender measurements?

 

Yeah, post them over here, @Sailor95 : https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/page-6#post-3470199

An example is a couple replies up from where that lands you.