Prop shaft party advice

Another learning experience & fun weekend of working on my new to me truck!


Thank you guys for all your help with my alt, now I'm humbly asking for your help again.


My center support bearing needs replaced.

I already have the correct part in hand big thanks to an old comment I found by @Acatlin96 (Spicer 211750-1X)

I guess if I'm replacing 1 u joint, I should probably just go ahead & replace all 3 then.
Advance Auto saying the Spicer 5-1330x
fits my truck. (I opted for the non-greasable) Are all 3 the same throughout the driveshaft?

Also, it looks like the output shaft seal at trans is leaking, I'm guessing from driving for a week while I tried to figure out why my steering wheel was vibrating...

Is an aftermarket seal from AA okay for that? Was reading I should put gasket maker for oil around the new seal? & should I grab a replacement seal for the rear pinion by the differential too? If so, also install with gasket maker?

Worried about the seals when I go to reinstall the prop shaft.

Almost lastly, what specific type/brand of grease do you recommend for the splines that go into the support bearing?

Finally, I will be learning as I go with this doing it at home, any lesser-known tips to save frustration?
Think I've gathered most of the must-know basic info thus far. I know I should just take it to a shop but I'm trying to save some money like anybody else.


I know that's quite the list of questions so TIA to anyone who takes their time here!

 

I have absolutely no idea if i'm right or not, but off the top of my head a 1330 doesn't sound like it's the correct joint. I only say this because i have a few spare Dana 1330 joints on my shelf, and the irony that they would fit my tundra would be very thick.

 

Thank you, first things first need to make sure I have the right damn parts lol.

04371-04031

There's the Toyota p/n I forgot I wrote down earlier. Now hope to cross check & find it cheaper tmrw

 

@whodatschrome noticed u have some 2wd and 4wd action going on, nice.


Wondering if that has something to do with it.
Maybe the 1330's are for 2wd & the 50's for 4wd? Because plugging in the 50's to Advance Auto saying no fit for my 2x4


Hold on am I reading that right, you've done a 2-4wd conversion??

 

1330 joints are very common (as well as 1310, 1350, 1410) in the domestic vehicles (chebby, ford, older dodge). I have 1330 joints in various CJs and YJs that i have. I was under the impression that toyota used their own proprietary size?

A link to my 4x conversion- https://www.tundras.com/threads/tacoed-tundra-project.130491/

 

The Rockauto.com catalog also shows this part number as correct for a Dana/Spicer non-greaseable u-joint. Same one for all three for the 2WD.

 

Holy shit, feel like I've just encountered a mystical beast in the wild. & here I am asking about what kind of grease to use lmao

Wow man that's awesome good job!!! Respect

Well I'm betting you're right on the UJoints. Dammit.

 

The previous Toyota part number was 04371-04030. 04371-04031 has superseded it recently, so the cross references may not be updated with it. The rockauto listing for 5-1330X shows 04371-04030 as a cross reference.

From what I can tell at ToyoDIY, there was driveshaft change beginning 8/2004 production. The 5-1330X is a different part from what I used on my 2004 2WD Access Cab (built in 2003) a few years ago. It used part 5-13101X (greaseable, I used these because an engineer at Spicer told me they were better.)

 

Mystical, beast, wild....i’m only one out of those three, but i’m not saying which...

 

Definitely don’t take my word as gospel for the U joints! I don’t know for certainly at all. It just doesn’t seem to me like the correct joint. Hopefully someone else can chime in with better knowledge.

 

My 06’ 4x used a different joint. I believe this is the classic joint going back to the 80’s. It’s non-serviceable version.

I believe my joint doesn’t cross to Spicer. And nowhere on my shaft does it say Spicer, which threw me off, as I thought all the Tacoma’s and Tundra’s used Spicer shafts.

 

Well didn't expect this post to turn into a spider joint debate, but I appreciate the research & advice ya'll put in to get the bottom of this.

I would really like to start this job after work today, so it is safe to say I can go ahead ahead with the 5-1330x Spicer?

Or should I try & find the non-greasable equivalent of 5-13101X like you mentioned @dt325ic?

Was already not happy about putting another $100 into the joints, but if I go with the pretty red toyota box it'll be closer to $200.
But if that's what I have to do then slap my ass & serve me a milkshake.

 

Spicer 5-1330X is likely correct for your truck.

In August 2004, there was a change in the driveshaft for 2WD trucks. My truck was made before the change. Yours is after the change. The part number that I used will not be correct for your truck.

2WD and 4WD use different driveshafts and U-joints as well.

 

I prefer seals and gaskets from Toyota. Aftermarket gaskets are hit and miss. If you already have one from AAP, might as well use it.

The service instructions do not show the use of a sealer or gasket maker. States to drain the ATF, remove the seal, clean the area well, use multi-purpose grease on the lip of the oil seal. Draining the ATF may not be necessary depending on how level or un-level your truck is sitting.

If the differential pinion seal is not leaking, I would not replace it.

As for the splines of the driveshaft, the service manual states to use multi-purpose grease there as well.

I would highly recommend that you find the service manual. If you can't find one, shoot me a PM.

Tips: Its going to take longer than you think. Removing the u-joints can be a pain. You may say words that are frowned upon in some circles. Do you have a puller or press to remove the joints? Big hammer is sometimes necessary.

 

Cool, you have me pretty confident on the spider part so I will go along with that & double check where I can.

Have not bought the seal yet, hopefully my dealer will have one when I go to pick up new stake nut today.

& yeah I just saw a thread where seal was leaking, so dude replaced it & slapped drive shaft back in, & it was still leaking. So someone recommended the gasket maker to seal it up. But maybe he just didn't install it right to begin with?

Truck is actually parked with nose sloping down slightly in parking lot, so hoping I can get away with skipping the ATF drain for now.. even if a small tiny amount comes out with the drive shaft?

Thanks for responding to original post with advice, and everything else. Much appreciated!

My buddy is coming over with his high torque impact & puller, so should be good there.
Only thing I'm worried about not having tool wise is a vice.

& yes I do have the FSM to consult for torque-spec n all that

 

Using a light coating of a sealer may not be a bad idea given the scenario you mention. I have seen the same in other rear drive cars. Sometimes there is wear, and sometimes the seal isn’t installed perfectly.

Remember to place match marks on the differential and driveshaft flanges before you remove. Also matchmarks on the yoke and driveshaft anytime you are going to separate. You want to be able to reassemble the driveshaft in the same orientation as it is on your truck now.

Good luck.

 

So now with other dude & now you giving blessing on the sealer, I think I will try that because I'd rather not have to drop the prop shaft again.

& yep I'm gonna mark it all up so it goes back on on right. Last thing I want is to go through all the work just to have to drop it back down & pay a drive shop.

Will need the luck. Thanks again & enjoy your weekend!

 

Thanks for the help guys my baby is back on the road & all good!

Enjoying some billiards & a cold one now

 

So another question, I knew I should've replaced the output shaft seal while I was in there, but I didn't.

Is there an easy way to pull it out & seat the new one in without the SST's?

In other words, is there a poor man's way of doing it or can I scoop some tools off Amazon for cheap?

 

This is a Tacoma, but the procedure is more or less the same

 

Perfect, just what I needed. You the man!

I'm a plumber too, think I can snag that fitting from the shop

 

I’m still confused why a 2wd would have a different U-Joint.

Mine cross’s to a Spicer 5-1510X.

 

I had so many thoughts about “what this thread is about”

I wasn’t even close.

 

I called Spicer on it & after some research on their end they confirmed that the 5-1330x was the correct part for my 2wd going with non-greasable.
Interestingly though, when I got my driveshaft down I discovered only the center u joint to have a zerk. The front & rear joints did not.

Hope the non-zerk last a while!

 

Haha yeah I was a little all over the place in my original post, & then it mainly became about what u joints were correct. & then being a noob I had other questions revolving around the prop shaft.

No party here though sorry. Not a fun one anyways