My attempt at 100K maintenance

That would be 00272-SLLC2.

 

Correct.... Got 2 gallons on the way ! My next fear to overcome is the transmission drain & fill.

 

I'm right there with you. I got the Veepeak Mini OBD II, it was suggested in this thread. But still a little intimidating.

Update: I got everything done except front diff, brake fluid, and transmission. I will knock that out when next week.

 

My thought is to put back in what I took out, by-pass the level check???????? This keeps me up at night !

 

This is the video that I think I'm going to use as reference when I do the transmission drain and fill.

https://youtu.be/cNu3feOLXxI?si=T0h-bqvC-_SmADqC

 

I'm not dropping the pan.

 

Thats right I'm not either. I watched so many videos. haha

 

You right in "not dropping the pan". The bolts tend to break off and the filter doesn't need to be changed.

Get a graduated container and measure what you remove. Add 1 litre/quart over what you took out. Insert a cotter pin to keep the thermostat open. Start the truck and move the shifter slowly though the gears. Follow the procedure for getting the truck in fluid detection mode. Once in fluid detection mode watch the trans pan temp and when you reach the minimum value open the level check plug and let the excess fluid run out. When the fluid starts to cling to the pan as it's running out, install the plug. Be aware there are two different trans temp specs and depends on which transmission you have. You can practice getting the trans in fluid detection mode before attempting your service at any time. If you practice some before the service it will be second nature.

 

Truck has to be level?

Dave, I really appreciate your insight and willingness to help us out.

 

Still intimidating. ugh. But I can get it figured out!

 

Transmission is a 6AT with an added cooler.

 

What transmission cooler do you have? I'm looking at getting one for next year summer RV trip planned to visit some national parks.

 

Site vendor

5.7L Transmission Cooler Kits | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)


Hmmmmm , am I a dope or does 6AT mean 6 speed automatic?

 

Some more thoughts from another DIY-er:

Brakes/brake fluid:
The only real mod I’ve done to my LX is putting OEM brakes, calipers, and brake lines from a 2017 Tundra on the front of the LX at 150k miles. The early 200 series trucks (08-15) have notoriously small brakes, but now mine stops like it means it. In order to do this, I had to un-seize some flare nuts and bleed the entire system, one corner at a time.

The flare nuts loosened up after about 30 seconds with a torch (small torch attachment on a Coleman camping fuel canister) and with using the correct size flare wrench. (Very important)

Granted, this LX has almost 0 rust underneath at all. But those nuts were seized.

I opened bleeder valves one corner at a time in the following counterintuitive order: FR, FL, RR, RL. That’s what the manual says. Our Tundra manuals say the same thing.

I had my oldest gently press the brake pedal down for me while I kept the reservoir topped off and waited to see clean fluid come out the bleeder valves.

PRO TIP: attach a small hose (1/4” or 3/8” interior diameter, I don’t remember) to bleed into a jug of your choice. No mess.

Diffs & TC:
Just get 6 qts for your diffs: 2.2 front/3.8 rear according to the manual. I use Amsoil 75w-90. One bulk order gets you free shipping, pays for your membership, and the discounted member price is actually less than the closest auto parts store to me sells Valvoline 75w-90 for.

The transfer case takes 75W on 2014-2021 trucks. This is important. I use Ravenol. You’ll need 2 x 1L bottles. I got mine on Amazon. Currently $26/each with $15 shipping. That puts you after tax at ~$75. This is a better deal than the OEM Toyota 75w that costs $92 per 1L can on Amazon.

On my LX, the gear oil had never been changed. Front diff fill plug was seized. I torched it for a minute and got it loose with a breaker bar. Once again the torch comes in clutch!

Transmission:

That’s the one I used. Pretty straightforward. Don’t forget to cycle through your gears while the truck is running to get your fluid up to temp in order to check the level. Funnel with a clear plastic hose from the engine bay (you’ll want 3/4” interior diameter here) makes this easy.

My fluid was brown at 60k (well, 61.5k) miles. I used OEM Toyota WS fluid. I’ll do it again @ 90k miles, and then use his other video where he drops the pan and replaces the filter @ 120k.

 

Ditto what Terndrerrr said, except that the Ravenol 75W for the TC is cheaper directly from Blauparts.com ($19.95 @ + $15 shipping) rather than from Amazon where they are the seller anyway.

 

I haven’t ordered it for a while; it used to be $19.95 on Amazon. I’ll go direct next time. Good catch!

PS: I changed diffs and TC oil at 30k. That 75w was clean as a whistle. I’m not changing it again until 90k.

 

I have all the fluids for TC, front diff, and trans, but am not looking forward to having to remove the front cat plate.

 

Yup, the added CAT plate removal puts a little more angst to the whole procedure.

 

Yes, on level ground. When on jack stands in the same position as it would be on level ground. Remember to remove your cotter pin from the thermostat after your done.

 

Naw, almost as easy as changing engine oil but with the temp monitoring step.

 

So I've been super lack still haven't gotten to the front diff, transmission, or brake fluid. I will probably knock out the brake fluid this weekend in between projects. But since my truck is a 2016 I have to add greasing the drive shaft to the list.

 

Coolant swap was a walk in the park ! Thanks to all.

 

I forgot this myself, been about 25k miles since. Time to get to it I suppose, I even own a grease gun now. Wonder if there's a YouTube video on it handy...

 

Super easy to do. I'm at 104K and I've never done it so looking forward to seeing if there will be any difference in driving afterwards. Just make sure the grease is NLGI 2.